Faucet Repair or Replace? Cost, Signs & What to Expect

What a repair actually fixes

Before assuming a faucet needs to be replaced, it is worth knowing what a repair can and can't fix — most calls fall into one of these four:

• Cartridge. The single most common cause of a dripping faucet on modern single- and double-handle faucets. The cartridge controls flow and temperature inside the handle; when the seals inside it wear out, water drips from the spout even with the handle off. Swapping the cartridge (matched to the faucet brand and model) usually resolves the drip completely.
• O-rings. Smaller rubber seals around the cartridge or the base of the spout. When these dry out or crack, you'll usually see water at the base of the faucet or a slow leak under the sink rather than a drip from the spout itself.
• Aerator. The small mesh screen at the tip of the spout. A clogged aerator doesn't cause a leak, but it does cause low pressure, a spraying stream, or a faucet that seems weaker on one side — often mistaken for a bigger problem. It unscrews by hand and is one of the cheapest fixes in plumbing.
• Supply lines. The flexible braided lines running from the shutoff valves to the faucet. If the leak is actually under the sink at a connection rather than at the faucet itself, a cracked or corroded supply line is frequently the cause, and it's a simple swap.

If your water pressure has dropped at more than just one faucet, the cause may be further upstream than the fixture — see our guide to low water pressure in your house for how to narrow that down before assuming it's the faucet.

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Signs it's time to replace instead

A repair stops making sense once the faucet body itself — not just the internal parts — is the problem:

• Visible corrosion or mineral buildup on the faucet body or where it meets the sink, especially on faucets more than 10–15 years old.
• Loose or wobbly at the base no matter how tight the mounting nut is turned — usually a sign the mounting hardware or the faucet body itself has failed.
• Repeated leaks after a repair. If the same faucet has needed a cartridge or O-ring twice in a couple of years, the body may be worn enough that a new leak is only a matter of time.
• Parts are discontinued. Older or off-brand faucets can be harder to match a cartridge to; if a repair part isn't available, replacement is the only option left.
• You want a different style, finish or feature — a pull-down sprayer, touchless operation, or simply an update to match a remodel. Not a repair question at all, just a preference.

Kitchen vs. bathroom faucets

The repair-or-replace logic is the same in both rooms, but a few things differ:

• Kitchen faucets see heavier daily use and often include a pull-down or pull-out sprayer, a separate soap dispenser, or an air gap for a dishwasher or filtration system — more parts that can wear out, and more holes in the sink deck to match when replacing. Kitchen faucets are also more likely to be single-hole, which limits which replacement styles will fit without extra deck plates.
• Bathroom faucets are simpler mechanically but come in more spacing configurations — 4-inch centerset, widespread, or single-hole — so a replacement has to match (or a widespread base plate can bridge the gap). Bathroom faucets are also more exposed to standing water and soap residue at the base, which is where corrosion tends to start first.

What does a professional installation involve?

Whether it's a repair on the existing faucet or a full swap, the job under the sink looks similar:

1. Shut off the water at the dedicated shutoff valves for that fixture, not the whole house, when possible.
2. Disconnect and remove the old faucet, including the supply lines and any sprayer hose or soap dispenser tubing.
3. Check the shutoff valves. Old, corroded or seized valves are a common surprise once the old faucet is off, and replacing them at the same time avoids a second trip.
4. Mount the new faucet to the sink or countertop, matching the existing hole pattern or adding a deck plate if needed.
5. Connect new supply lines and any sprayer or dispenser hardware.
6. Turn the water back on and check for leaks — at the supply connections, under the base of the faucet, and at any sprayer hose fitting — before calling the job done.

That last step matters more than it sounds: a slow drip under a cabinet can go unnoticed for weeks and damage the cabinet floor before anyone spots it, so every installation should end with the water run at full pressure while someone actually looks underneath.

Typical cost ranges

These are typical ranges we see for faucet work in eastern Massachusetts; the exact price depends on the faucet's price point and what's found once the old one is off.

Job	Typical range	Notes
Cartridge or O-ring repair	$125 – $250	Parts matched to faucet brand/model
Aerator replacement	$40 – $90	Often resolves a "low pressure" complaint
Supply line replacement	$100 – $200	Per line, includes shutoff check
Standard faucet installation (customer-supplied faucet)	$175 – $350	Working shutoff valves, no deck changes
Faucet installation with new shutoff valves	$275 – $500	Common on older homes
Kitchen faucet with sprayer/soap dispenser	$225 – $450	More connections and hardware to fit

These figures don't include the faucet itself unless noted — we're happy to install a fixture you've purchased or help you pick one in the right price range and configuration for your sink.

When should you call a plumber?

A clogged aerator or an accessible supply line is a fine DIY project for most homeowners. Call a plumber when:

• The shutoff valves under the sink are old, stiff, or won't fully close.
• The faucet requires matching a specific cartridge and the model isn't obvious.
• You're changing the hole pattern (adding or removing a sprayer or soap dispenser hole) or converting to single-hole.
• There's any sign of water damage to the cabinet floor or the wall behind the sink already.
• You'd rather have the leak checked and priced before deciding repair vs. replace.

Precision Plumbing Solutions repairs and installs kitchen and bathroom faucets across Essex, Middlesex, Suffolk, Norfolk and Plymouth Counties — see the faucet & fixture installation service page for details, or call us for a same-day reply.